Fifty-cent Head

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab is good for you and the earth!

poison ivy image courtesy of Comicvine.

This post is late, but to my defense I already told you my muse went missing for a little while. And I feel like this was fate, because now I can write this post and it's not going to get buried in the onslaught of information being thrown at your during Earth Week.

Basically, since I love BPAL so much I decided to ask Beth (founder, perfumer, Nose, perfume czar, genius) how they were helping the earth. This was a challenge I was fairly certain BPAL was up to , but would have posted the answers regardless. So, on to the official answer from Beth Moriarty on BPAL's commitment to keeping it real:

We believe in compassionate consumerism, and in giving as much back to the community as we can through charitable contributions, volunteer work, and by supporting fair trade and self-sustaining growers whenever possible. We participate in the Green Power for a Green LA program at work and in our homes, and have participated in fundraisers for many fine organizations, including the Comic Book Legal Defense Fund, the Orangutan Foundation UK, AIDS Project Los Angeles, the Animal Assistance League of Orange County, Bat Conservation International, Safe Haven for Donkeys in the Holy Land, Midway City, United Hope For Animals, the International Bird Rescue Research Center, the Red Cross, the Humane Society, and local women’s shelters.

Our bath and massage oils are paraben and formaldehyde free, and do not contain sodium lauryl or sodium laureth sulfate. With the exception of any formula that contains honey or beeswax, they are vegan, and are blissfully lacking in harsh chemicals or unwholesome fillers.

Our soaps were created with the finest environmentally-responsible ingredients, including Palm Kernel oil farmed from organic, fair-trade farms in Brazil (on reclaimed, replanted mixed-use rainforest) and organic Jojoba Oil grown in Arizona. They are completely free of artificial colors or preservatives, and are blissfully lacking in petroleum, silicone, or other unwholesome fillers.

BPAL’s Atmosphere Blends are non-aerosol, and our nail polish formula is free of toluene, DBP, and formaldehyde.

With the exception of our honey-based products and our bath products that contain goat’s milk, everything that comes from Black Phoenix is vegan, and we abhor animal testing.

And last, but not least… Black Phoenix Trading Post’s labels are printed on an Earth-friendly corn biopolymer.

Beth has given us lots of food for thought- this is not new, as just browsing her site makes on want to educate oneself (and slather on great-smelling products!). Please follow the links below to fall in line behind Beth and the BPAL gang and make the world you live in just a little bit better...

Learn more about Green Power here.
Read about and support the Comic Book Legal Defense Fund.
Visit the Orangutan Foundation UK and learn - and make a donation!
Support AIDS Project LA.
Check into the Animal Assistance League of Orange County, here.
I adore bats, so encourage you to check out The Bat Conservation International site and learn more about these misunderstood mammals.
A cause many have not heard of, but still a wonderful cause nonetheless: Safe Haven for Donkeys in the Holy Land. Learn more here.
Donate to United Help for Animals.
Peep the International Bird Rescue Research Center (the images will break your heart!).
The Red Cross can always be found online here.
Everyone has heard of The Humane Society, but when did you last volunteer or donate?
Please, please check your local directories to find women's shelters in your area and figure out a way you can help! Donate clothes, old equipment, blankets, money, toys, cosmetics, suits... ask what they need and find a way to provide it!

Learn more about veganism here.
Find out what fair trade really is - and then seek out companies that use fair trade ingredients, please!

What does it mean to be paraben free? The debate rages on over this issue, but read up about the basics, here.
Formaldehyde is natural, but undesirable in high quantities. Read more here.
Depending on who you hear it from, sodium lauryl and sodium laureth sulfate aren't so good for you. For example, read this. My feeling on this and parabens is: if the jury is still out, I'll avoid these when I can!
Why avoid products with petroleum in them? Oil harvesting can be damaging to the earth and wildlife, it's clearly getting more expensive, and burning oil is probably contributing to global warming. Besides, the oil the earth has left to share is dwindling fast, so why use it up when there are alternatives?!
I happen to like a lot of topical makeup products with silicones, but many folks avoid them. Read why, here.
Most of us don't use aerosols the way we used to when I was a kid (walking through 8 feet of snow, barefoot, to get to school- but I digress). Learn why, here, and be glad BPAL doesn't use them.
BPAL polishes are "Big-Three Free" which means--- well, read about it here. I must admit, I only use "big-three free" polishes now.
Go on, investigate biopolymers. I did, and I feel so much smarter now - and I know what to look for when shopping, now, too!

Today is Black Phoenix Day at FCH!

Take a look around this place and you'll see that here at FCH, we love us some BPAL (that's Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab in case you're new here). And I recently got some goodies from their affiliated site, Black Phoenix Trading Post, a great place to get non-perfume oil BPAL goodness. I want to tell you about them today, but I'll do so in separate posts. And I will probably get so in-the-mood for BPAL that I'll also post a review or two on some of my favorite oils.

So buckle yourself in, 'cause today is BLACK PHOENIX DAY here at Fifty-Cent Head!

Interview: Ramy, brow guru

I had the distinct honor of interviewing Ramy Gafny, known as "Manhattan's Brow Guru". His spa is on East 31st, between Park and Madison, and his line of cosmetics is growing steam in the industry.

Not sure you've heard of Ramy? You may have seen this makeup artist, whose theme is "minimum makeup, maximum impact," on The Oprah Winfrey Show, Entertainment Tonight, or E!. Or perhaps you read about him in Vogue? In Allure? InStyle? Shape? Self? Town & Country? (I'm a confessed magazine junkie, so that's how I first heard of him) He has worked with Britney, Lindsay, Nicole, Halle, Regis, Ivanka, Naomi, Mariska, and a bunch of other folks whose names you'd recognize even if I do have to use their last names!  Hullo, Katherine Heigl, Liev Schrieber, Rhianna, Emme, Carol Burnett, Julia Stiles, Ray Romano - random much? - Barbara Walters, Debra Messing, Renee Zellweger and the Queen of the Red Carpet: Joan Rivers.

Now that we've established his credentials, let's talk philosophy. He believes that women don't need tons of products that languish in their cabinets or drawers. (He would shudder at my makeup collection, no?!) Ramy beauty therapy - that's the name of his line - was created to give women multi-purpose products that will give them a quick way to enhance their natural look. And he also believes that brows are important - so important that he's picked up that moniker: Manhattan's Brow Guru.

So here's what he had to say. Hopefully I'll have some Ramy product reviews for you soon...

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How did you come to be known as a specialist in eyebrows?

I was hired to be Makeup Director at a top Fifth Avenue salon and they said "You're going to be in charge of eyebrows too" and I said "OK" and started practicing on the staff. It turned out that I had a natural eye for brow shaping and people started lining up. Then the salon started booking me clients and next thing I knew, I was written up in Vogue as New York's Best brow shaper!

Are there trends in brows? If so, what is the next trend you see on the horizon?

The current trend is having very full, strong brows that look polished and arched. I happen to think this look is classic and that brows should be classic and not trendy. You don't want to see a picture of yourself in ten years and have to say, "That was the trend back then" I think brows should always be as full as possible with a nice arch. The next trend will probably be too go a touch thinner - which will then lead to overly thin brows and come back full circle to the full brow.

What is the worst faux pas one can commit with her brows? What about for men?

 Making the brows too thin or creating the dreaded hook shape (or both!) are horrible and common mistakes. No one should ever wax, but men especially look overdone and like drag queens when their brows are waxed.

How do you feel about brow color? When one changes one's hair, should the brow color change as well? 

Your brow color can be up to two shades lighter or darker than your hair color, but no more than that. Your brows do not have to match your hair color exactly, but you don't want a huge discrepancy, like black eyebrows with blonde hair or blonde eyebrows with red hair.

 
What's best: waxing, threading, tweezing? Why?

Tweezing is best because it's the most precise method that offers the most control. Waxing is the worst as you're just indiscriminately removing rows of hair and one wrong move means "bye-bye eyebrow". Waxing is also aging and bad for the delicate skin around the eye area. Threading is what was done before tweezers were invented and its a trend. I hear it's more painful than tweezing and that sometimes hair breaks instead of being removed from the root, so it may not grow back in a uniform manner.

Advise us on how to fill brows in for a most natural look, please. And tell us what products you like for this task.

You can use a pencil, a powder or a pomade to fill brows. As a rule, choose a color a shade or two lighter than your brow color. Lighter looks more natural, darker, more artificial and heavy. When in doubt, choose taupe. Whatever you use to fill brows, always brush it through to remove excess product and blend. This leaves you with a natural looking borw, not a made up looking brow. My favorite products are my Miracle Brow Compact ($28.) which has two universal shades that work on most everyone, my Neutral Impact eyeshadow, and coming in April, My Perfect Brow Wand, which will be a double ended pen witg a neutral brow filler on one end and a highlighter on the other!

Taking advantage of this opportunity, I'd like to ask about my own brows. They used to be full but are more sparse now (overplucking, age, and a touch of trichtillomania). What's the best way to encourage them to grow back, or is it too late? Do I go in stages or just not touch them for a few weeks/months? 

The fastest way to grow them back to former glory is to touch NOTHING for up to three months. Really go back to square one. Be sure to take a good multi-vitamin to ensure your body has all the nutrients it needs for optimum hair growth and try a product like my Eye GROW Brows! which can be applied nightly to help hair grow faster and fuller.

 
Is there something you want to tell the world about eyebrows?

Having your eyebrows professionally shaped is the fastest way to improve your appearance without plastic surgery. A proper shaping  can make you look younger, more sophisticated, and generally more perfect!

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Thanks to Ramy for his time and expertise!